When I think of Patagonia, the first thing that comes to mind is the landscape and the endless amounts of fishable water—the picturesque mountain ranges with rolling hills of green populated with lamb, cattle, and gauchos with their berets adorning their rough visages. A perfectly reasonable expectation in my mind, and of course, all those things were found within the first five minutes of travel from the airport in Balmaceda heading to the lodge at Magic Waters.

My expectations were high, as I have lived as a trout angler for decades. The opportunity to spend time on the waters chasing big Rainbows and Browns was in line with my bread and butter here in the PNW. The experience itself exceeded all my expectations. The sheer volume of water available, from spring creeks no more than a meter wide to glacial-fed rivers spanning a hundred feet along with innumerable lakes - it nearly overwhelmed my sense of fishing in the unique Aysen Region. The Aysen Region's diverse and pristine landscapes, from the picturesque mountain ranges to the rolling hills, provide a perfect backdrop for a unique fishing experience. The abundance of fishing opportunities was exhilarating, and I couldn't wait to explore them all.

“Ok, settle down,” I told myself as the truck carrying us careened through the hills along dusty, rough gravel roads. Passing homes where the pride of being Chilean was evident from nearly every home hung the Chilean Flag. Eduardo (the lodge owner) informed the team he had to make a quick stop in town to vote for some local initiatives and legislators. “You still haven’t seen the lodge yet,” I said, noting wildlife like the famed Andean Condors floating effortlessly across a partially clouded sky. Jack Rabbits were running everywhere, and the occasional flock of sheep slowed our progress, but that was precisely the type of traffic I had hoped for. The lodge is nestled in the unique Aysen Region, surrounded by picturesque mountain ranges, rolling hills, and abundant fishable water, making it a paradise for anglers and nature lovers.

As I continued to be amazed at the jaw-dropping scenery, we rounded a bend, showing a vision of beauty—the lodge came into full view with a small lake accompanying it to the north. The locally sourced wooden structures, with their unique Alaskan-inspired design, were straight out of your dreams. The open-beam architecture and massive windows overlooking the lake add to the lodge's charm and provide a perfect setting for a memorable stay. The lodge's radiant heating, spacious rooms, and modern amenities ensure a comfortable and luxurious stay, while the hot tub off the main deck and the stunning view of the hills and adjoining lake provide the perfect way to unwind after a long day of fishing. 

Massive windows look out over the lake of the great room, where the couches and house staff are accommodating and make you feel at home. Each bedroom contains two king-size beds, plenty of space to hang up clothes and shelf space for the rest of your clothing, and bathrooms with double sinks and excellent showers. Starlink supplies WiFi throughout the entire lodge. Laundry service is on-site, and you should always expect to be greeted with a “Pisco Sour” when you return from a long fishing day.

As Eduardo and Consuelo are both graduates of the Culinary Arts, their attention to detail in every service and course is treated with care, and an attention to detail that is unlike anything I have experienced. They encourage the Chefs to bring their interpretations of various dishes to the table, albeit with their careful eye on the details, helping to teach from their many years of experience. The outstanding local cuisine, with its locally sourced meats, vegetables, dairy, wines, and spices, danced around my palette like mayflies along the river or caddis spinning in the air, leaving me intrigued and eager to savor more.

The mission of the family that owns and operates these lodges is clear—you are now part of their family. That means you will likely meet their children, spend some time with them, have meals with them, and share in the hospitality that the Chileans greet you with a “mucho gusto” and a firm handshake. Smiles for miles through grace and gratitude for every client visiting them is how every house staff, guide, and cook showed appreciation. Their exceptional hospitality made me feel welcomed and valued, and I could see why people return every year.

While this may sound good for the Magic Waters Lodge, you might ask, “What about Baker Lodge?” Imagine all the same notes I provided for Magic Waters, but add that the Baker River is one of the most sought-after, even for the locals in Chile and neighboring Argentina who visit the region. From the deck of Baker Lodge, your access to the Baker is only steps away, and the accommodations and staff may even be more comfortable and welcoming.

While I may not be able to match my description of the lodges in the same form, you all need to hear about the fishing, right?

As diverse as the service of plating, the rivers, creeks, streams, and lakes of the Aysen Region are outstanding and offer anglers of all skill levels a chance to hone those skills. Opportunities to Euro-nymph, cast dries, dry-droppers, streamers, and all too willing (albeit lazy in appearance) Rainbows and Browns are unlike anything I have seen other than here in my home waters of Central Oregon. At times, these fish' behavior amazed and confounded me. “Why would a twenty-four-inch Brown Trout be hanging under a cut bank in this Spring Creek no more than that same width?” Because they can, just because they can. The thrill of the chase, the anticipation of a strike, and the satisfaction of a catch are all part of the unique fishing experience in Patagonia.

The simple fact is that (according to a University of Washington gentleman I talked to at the airport), the water quality in this region is pure, there are no pollutants, and the water and habitat are in such a state that competition for “good water” doesn’t exist for these fish - it’s all good everywhere. You couple that with the fact that no predators would exclusively target them, which means stability and growth to the sizes we are talking about occur with zero stress. This place is what dreams are made of for the willing trout angler.

Tromping through a horse pasture when it leads you to eighteen to twenty-four-inch trout is worth every step if you ask me. That is one of many ways by which you can access these fish. Spend a little time driving down a gravel road to another spot to be greeted with waterfalls cascading down into a pool of fish resting, or jump on the back of a horse for a light ride streamside to waiting fish in pocket water. Walk and wade to your heart's content, spotting and targeting fish along the way, like in the Cochrane (Baker Lodge), or from the Magic Waters Lodge, go for a hike on one of the tributaries of the Simpson, fishing inlets and feeder systems for miles and miles.

Hit up the lake just behind Magic Waters to cast under tree limbs and over piles of structure underwater for even bigger fish than you find on the spring creeks. Head to “Zero or Hero,” which gets its name from the enormous Browns that inhabit it, and be told, “That’s not a Hero.” when you land a perfect twenty-three-inch Rainbow that you watched gently swim up and slurp your dry fly off the top. How about a quick whitewater trip through the Upper Paloma, catching fish at the put-in, getting some “splash and giggle” coming down the rapids, and then doing more sight fishing for massive trout? If stripping streamers is your gig, head out to General Carerra Lake to fish along submerged shelves containing monsters and underwater boulder gardens hiding the next big fish using sink-tips, or over to Brown Lake (from Baker Lodge) to sample some “flats” fishing for trout similar to what we see in the systems we chase Bonefish hucking chubbies and giving them a few strips to “wake up” the fish living there.

All in all, the angling experience of Magic Waters Lodge and Baker Lodge are as diverse, surprising, and exceptional as any offerings I have found anywhere in the Western US, including my travels to Alaska. If trout fishing is your thing, there is no better way to scratch that itch during the winter of North America than to hit the road and get down to South America to enjoy their Spring and Summer. I had such a good time with this fantastic opportunity that I am returning this March. If this sounds like your type of adventure, and you’re excited to go - I am just a phone call or an email away. Please reach out soon so I can provide dates and availability, as spots will fill quickly.

Gabe Parr
Host - Chilean Patagonia
Marketing/IT/Data Manager
Stillwater Fly Shop and Stillwater Travel
gabe@stillwaterflyshop.com - email
(541) 598-7322 - Shop Phone
(541) 797-6824 - Travel Phone